home *** CD-ROM | disk | FTP | other *** search
/ The Beer Homebrewing Guide / The Bear Homebrewing Guide.iso / catscan / kegging2.bmp (.png) < prev    next >
Bitmap Image  |  1994-06-05  |  469KB  |  603x774  |  8-bit (70 colors)
Labels: text | font | black and white | paper
OCR: any more gas ascaping. I then vant the keg down to about 5 pai once I'm sure it's smaled. The rest is up to the yeast, just store the keg the way you would a bottle of bear, and give it the same amount of time to fully carbonate. Two weeks is the average. Patiance is not my strong point, especially when beer is involved, so I artificially carbonate my beer. I have found that I can out the time down to a couple of days and eliminate the first couple glammmm of yoasty beer if I let my beer fully clarify in the carboy, and then force co2 for carbonation. It may sound tough, but it is all a matter of temperature, aggitation (the beer's not yours) and time. First off, get your bear really clear. This is not imperative, but since you won't need any yeast for carbonation, it can't hurt. I put my carboys in the fridge. It helps them clarify, and since beer absorbs Co2 more readily at a lower temperature, the colder it is, the easier it will carbonato. When it is clear (if I can wait that long), I siphon it into a sterile kag. I sterilize with bleach, or BTF, an iodine based sterilant, so I don't have to rinse with water. Seal up the key and, depending on the temperature of the beer, push in the appropriate amount of co2. Rules of thumb ara 30 to 40 degreem, 10 to 15 pmi, 40 to 50 degrees, 15 to 20 psi, 50 to 60 degrees 20 to 30 pai. If your beer in warm, you can push in &# much as 50 pai to carbonate, but make sure your bosem can handle it. Most caps won't take more than 25 to 30 psi. For Light Lagers you may want to use up to 5 lbs more, for Barley Wines. slightly less. You may then aggitate che keg until the beer accepts no more Co2 (give it 5 or so minutes between shakings to lat the foam subside). It shouldn't take more than three or four times to get it done. It is possible at this point to vent the kag, and dispense at 5 to 15 Ibs of pressure to drink immediately. The beer may taste a bit thin, and not have the lasting bubblem you like, but for amargancies, it ain't bad. If you give the Co2 several days to a wack to fully absorb, the beer will improve drastically. I make 10 Gallon batches, and carbonate both at the same time. By the time I am finished with the first keg (sometimes faster than I like to admit) the second keg is perfect. Aga will improve the beer in a kag just like beer In the bottle. If you give it a month to age, the carbonation should be beautiful, small tightly knit bubbles that continue to come out of suspention lika good champagne- Another way to Carbonata without having to keep the keg hooked up to the co2 while you are shaking it (this is sometimes much easier) is to measure the amount of Co2 you add. Push 30 to 60 pmi into your keg, Facored the amount, unhook the gas and shake the kog thoroughly. Then measure the amount of pressure remaining with your pressure gauge. Record the difference. Continue this process until your beer has sucked up 50 to 70 pai for alma ax 70 to 100 pai for Lagers and wheat beers. It usually takes 3 or 4 times with a cold key of beer, sometimes twice that with a warm ons. Vent the keg, and dispensa at 10 to 15 psi. Initially, the beer may foam a great deal. Contrary to what you might think, this means the beer has not absorbed enough CO2 rather than too much. If you taste the baar, you will find that it tastes under-carbonated rather than over-carbonated. The Co2 will be absorbed with time, or continued agitation. Chilling the beer also increases absorbtion greatly. There are several other pluses to kegging. You can filter your beer by running it from one Cornelius keg through a cartridge filter and into a second key. You can also bottle your baar with a counter pressure bottle filler. This allows you to completely clarify your beer, carbonate it, and then put it in the bottle, leaving no yeast or residue to cloud your beer or stick to the bottom. These procedures are time consuming, expansive, and usually quite unneccesary, but with a kegging system, it can be done. It is also quite masy to add aromatic hop tea, fruit juices or extracts, spices, etc. to the bour directly in the key to soup-up a bland beer, give a fruit beer extra flavor, or give a Christmas Spiced Ala that extra pungent, spicy character. I have even added dissolved, boiled dextrin powder or lactose to an overhopped ale or stout to round it out and make it more palatable. If you have questions about kegging, you can call os anytime during business hours at (415) 459-2520. Ask for Xike or Jay. Happy Brewing!